45 Men and a Flag: William Walker’s Invasion of Baja California
On the night of October 16, 1853, a 29-year-old American lawyer named William Walker slipped out of San Francisco harbor under cover of darkness on the schooner Caroline. He had 45 men with him. He had no maps of the territory he was about to invade. He had neglected to bring sufficient food. He had no military experience. He did have, however, an extraordinary sense of personal destiny and a flag he’d designed himself for the country he was about to create. The country was Baja, or Lower California. Never mind that Baja California was part of Mexico, the plan was to conquer it, declare it an independent republic governed by the laws of Louisiana – which meant slavery was legal – and eventually petition for annexation by the United States. The plan was insane. It nearly worked.
William Walker is one of the most remarkable yet most forgotten figures in American history, a testimony to the stories we choose to forget. He was born in Tennessee in 1824, the son of a non-slave owning family, and grew up to become a physician, then a lawyer, then a newspaper editor, graduating from all three professions with the particular confidence of a man who has been told repeatedly that he is brilliant. He stood five feet, two inches tall. He had pale gray eyes described by contemporaries as unsettling, the kind of eyes that don’t blink quite often enough. He had been shot in at least two duels and survived both. He had, somewhere in the course of all this doctoring and lawyering and newspaper editing, become absolutely convinced that the destiny of the United States required the expansion of white, slaveholder civilization into Latin America. He was not alone in this belief. The 1850s were the high noon of what Americans called Manifest Destiny, the quasi-religious conviction that the United States was ordained by God to expand across the continent and perhaps beyond it. The Mexican-American War had just ended in 1848, delivering to the U.S. more than half of Mexico’s territory: Texas, California, Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, Utah, Colorado. The appetite had not been satisfied. Men like Walker – called “filibusters” after the Spanish filibustero, or pirate – raised their own private armies and invaded sovereign nations, not on behalf of the U.S. government but in the spirit of it, testing boundaries, claiming territory, daring Mexico to fight back. Walker decided to start with Baja California and Sonora. He had actually traveled to Guaymas in the summer of 1853 to ask the Mexican government for a land grant in Sonora. Mexico said no.
He went back to San Francisco, recruited 45 men – many of them Gold Rush veterans who had missed the fortune they came for and were looking for the next opportunity – and stole a second ship when the U.S. Army seized the first one. Walker’s schooner, the Caroline, arrived at Cabo San Lucas on October 28, 1853, paused for water, then sailed up the Gulf to La Paz. He arrived on November 3 flying the Mexican flag, a deception that gave him the element of surprise in a town of approximately 1,000 people who had no reason to expect an American invasion before breakfast. It took thirty minutes. Walker’s men captured the governor, Colonel Rafael Espinosa, at gunpoint. They hauled down the Mexican flag and ran up Walker’s own: three horizontal stripes, red and white, with a single star. Walker stepped off the boat, looked around the small, sun-bleached capital of one of Mexico’s most remote territories, and declared himself president. “The Republic of Lower California” he announced in a proclamation immediately dispatched to California newspapers, “is hereby declared Free, Sovereign, and Independent, and all allegiance to the Republic of Mexico is forever renounced.” He decreed free trade with the world. He decreed that the laws of the state of Louisiana would govern his new nation. Louisiana’s laws included slavery. Walker had just introduced the institution to a country that had abolished it 25 years earlier.
In San Francisco, the news landed like a firework. A local paper hailed the filibusters for “releasing Lower California from the tyrannous yoke of declining Mexico.” A recruiting office opened; within hours, hundreds of men had signed up. The era of Manifest Destiny was such that a private citizen could invade a foreign country with 45 men, declare himself its president, and be celebrated as a patriot in the American press. Walker’s problem was not public relations. His problem was logistics. Walker had no maps and no food, and Baja California in 1853 had no roads and very few people willing to help him. Within three days of his glorious proclamation, he abandoned La Paz – partly from fear of Mexican counterattack, partly because there was nothing useful there – and retreated to Cabo San Lucas. Three weeks later he moved again to Ensenada, 1,600 kilometers to the north, dragging prisoners with him in a wagon across terrain he did not understand toward a border he could barely locate. The promised supply ships from California were late. When reinforcements finally arrived – around 230 additional volunteers – they brought almost no provisions and less knowledge of how to survive the Baja desert. Walker’s men were living off livestock seized from local ranches, for which Walker issued IOUs that no one would ever collect.
On January 10, 1854, apparently feeling that conquering one non-existent country was insufficient, Walker issued a new decree: Baja California was now annexed to the Republic of Sonora. He had not set foot on the Mexican mainland, but he was now president of two countries. He began marching north toward the border, hoping to find a passage east into Sonora. His men were deserting in substantial numbers. Those who stayed were dying of dysentery and dehydration. The local population – the rancheros and farmers and fishermen of the Baja peninsula – were actively hostile, refusing to sell him food and in several cases taking
up arms against him under a Mexican officer named Antonio Meléndrez, who harassed Walker’s retreating column relentlessly through the thorny, waterless mountains of northern Baja.
By May of 1854, Walker had fewer than 35 men left. He tried to reach San Vicente – the administrative seat of Baja California about 90 miles south of the US border – but found Mexican troops had taken it. He tried to cross into the United States but found Mexican soldiers blocking his path and American soldiers waiting on the other side. In the end, the Mexican fighters stepped aside and let him cross and he surrendered on May 8, 1854. His invasion of Baja California and Sonora had lasted eight months, cost the lives of unknown numbers of men on both sides, and accomplished absolutely nothing. Back in San Francisco, Walker was tried for violating the Neutrality Act, which prohibited American citizens from waging private war against nations at peace with the United States. The jury deliberated for eight minutes and acquitted him. The era of Manifest Destiny was such that it only took eight minutes for twelve people to conclude that invading Mexico was fine. Walker, characteristically, took the acquittal as an endorsement. He immediately began planning his next invasion. In 1855 he went to Nicaragua with 60 men, exploited a civil war to seize control of the country, declared himself president, reinstated slavery (which Nicaragua had abolished), and made English an official language. U.S. President Franklin Pierce formally recognized his government. Walker ruled Nicaragua for almost a year. A coalition of Central American armies drove him out in 1857. He tried twice more to return. In 1860, the British Navy captured him in Honduras and handed him to local authorities. He was executed by firing squad on September 12, 1860, at age 36. He died, witnesses reported, without flinching.
Walker’s adventure had consequences for Baja California that echoed for decades. The invasion accelerated Mexican determination to populate and militarize the peninsula. Over a third of Baja’s already sparse population reportedly left the territory during and after the invasion, fleeing the chaos. The Mexican government responded by pushing settlers in from the mainland and establishing garrisons at key points along the peninsula. The modern effort to make Baja actually Mexican, rather than just technically Mexican, began in part as a direct response to Walker. In Mexico, Walker appears in third-grade history primers. In the United States, he is largely forgotten, a minor footnote in the history of Manifest Destiny, which itself has been largely laundered out of the national memory. William Walker, president of two republics that never existed, is dust.
Camp Cecil de la Bahia: Humpback, Fishing, Birding and Kayaking
Baja doesn’t get more wild, more alive, or more beautiful than this!
Nestled on the edge of one of the most biologically rich bays on the planet, Camp Cecil de la Bahía is your dreamy, wild, and utterly remote base camp for four unforgettable days and three magical nights immersed in the spectacular wildlife and untamed beauty of Magdalena Bay. The tents of Camp Cecil de la Bahia are beautifully appointed walk-in safari-style tents with gorgeous beds, seating areas, rugs, chandeliers, and ensuite bathrooms. The camp chef prepares three beautiful meals a day and daily happy hour.
In December and January, you can witness humpback whales lunging and breaching in the cobalt-blue waters at the mouth of the bay. Watch in wonder as these gentle giants roll and spy-hop, putting on a show that no screen can prepare you for. Cruise alongside playful pods of bottlenose dolphins as they race your bow. Share the water with California sea lions that seem to delight in your company as much as you delight in theirs.
From the camp you can take your kayak and glide silently through a cathedral of ancient mangroves—great blue herons, ospreys, pelicans and frigatebirds keeping watch as you paddle deeper into one of Baja’s most treasured coastal ecosystems. Your expert naturalist guide brings it all to life with the stories of plants, birds, and creatures that depend on these critical nursery waters.
And for those who want to test their luck against Magdalena Bay’s legendary fishing grounds—grab a rod and head out with our knowledgeable local fishing captains. Yellowtail, grouper, snapper, and occasional roosterfish are all in play.
Humpback, Fishing and Kayaking Season at Camp Cecil de la Bahia is mid-December to late January.
Fishing boats face the Bay of La Paz, where plankton blooms draw migrating whales and whale sharks annually from October to April. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
It took less than 24 hours for La Paz to become my favourite city in Mexico — a realization that came while savouring the glow of another reliable sunset on the Malecon.
A two-hour drive north from the spring break resort hotspot of Cabo San Lucas, we’d left mega resorts, chain stores and aggressive timeshare touts behind for a different experience of Baja California Sur.
Renting a bike to enjoy the sunset along the Malecón of La Paz. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
In La Paz, the state’s resurgent capital on the shores of the Sea of Cortez, the lifestyle sells itself. Cars stop for pedestrians crossing the five-kilometre-long seafront boulevard, lined with restaurants and stores, benches, gardens, marine-themed statues and dedicated running and biking lanes. A chilled margarita blend of locals, expats and tourists imparts a relaxing atmosphere you simply won’t find in the flop-n-drops of Cancun, Puerto Vallarta or Acapulco.
Luxury camping — aka “glamping” — has become a popular travel trend in recent years. But given the number of glamping experiences now on offer, Bryan Jauregui is unsure whether the catchphrase is still useful. Instead, the Louisiana transplant defines glamping as accommodation restricted by its terrain, with no permanent structures, no sewerage, and no access to the grid.
Together with her husband Sergio, Bryan co-founded Todos Santos Eco Adventures to pioneer outdoor adventure in Baja California Sur, curating a wide range of experiences, such as kayaking, hiking, birdwatching, coral gardening, sandboarding, cliff walking, surfing and whale watching, while upping the wow factor at three off-grid camps. This includes their latest endeavour, Camp Cecil de la Bahia, set on sprawling sand dunes overlooking the grey whale mecca of Magdalena Bay.
Elegant touches in the safari tents at Camp Cecil de la Bahia. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
Sandboarding on the dunes at Camp Cecil de la Bahia. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
It’s a two-hour-plus drive north from La Paz on bullet-straight Highway 1 before we turn onto the bumpy dirt road to Cancún. Not the resort city of Cancún, 3,500 kilometres away in the Yucatán, but a tiny, namesake wood-shack fishing village primarily occupied by pelicans, cormorants, blue crabs and seagulls. Camp Cecil guests hop on a motorboat for a half-hour ferry to the dunes, where we are greeted by smiling staff, a cocktail, and large safari-style tents with a dazzling view.
A sunset cocktail with smiles at Camp Cecil de la Bahia. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
“Luxury here has always been the nature,” says Bryan, visiting to assess the inaugural season’s success. “To be in a place this beautiful and remote, you typically have to rough it and have serious camping skills. But here, you can bring your kids or your parents, enjoy an experience perhaps just outside your comfort zone, but celebrate at the end of the day with great food and a comfortable bed.”
We’re shown to our gorgeous safari-style tent with thick duvets, plush carpets, elegant décor, and an ensuite bathroom with a foot-pump-operated sink and a compost latrine. Within minutes, my daughter wanders off, and I’m a little worried when I can’t find her. “I was just following coyote footprints to a massive beach beyond the dunes,” is her excuse, warming my heart to see an adventurous apple falling very close to her father’s tree.
Overlooking a lagoon, Camp Cecil de la Bahai is rebuilt on sand dunes from scratch for every season. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
Tents with a view at Camp Cecil de la Bahia. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
After an outstanding lunch of tuna sashimi tostadas and fresh guacamole, my daughter investigates bones and shells, triggers avalanches in the soft dunes, conquers the sandboards, and makes friends with a nine-year-old girl visiting with her family from Guadalajara. We paddle out in sea kayaks to explore nearby mangroves and sandbars, watching turtles breach as pelicans and osprey dive bomb for fish.
Epic stargazing on top of the dunes at Camp Cecil de la Bahia. (Photo courtesy Quetzalli Gallo Campos)
Returning to camp, we gather for cocktails on the beach and one of those epic sunsets that never sets in your memory. A locally caught lobster dinner, sourced from another fishing village, is followed by sensational stargazing, enthusiastically led by Sergio, who draws on his deep knowledge of myth and story. The girls dip their toes in the dark waters of the lagoon and gasp at shimmering bioluminescence mirroring the stars above. You remember days like this for a lifetime.
That Camp Cecil delights a nature lover’s imagination is no accident. The Cecil in question is Cecil Kramer, an Emmy Award-winning animation producer with credits that include Wallace & Gromit and Shrek. A close family friend of the Jaureguis, Cecil takes on each glamping site as a passion project, designing the interiors, layout, and ensuring an overall sense of wonder for all ages. Close encounters with a curious, spy-hopping grey whale in Magdalena Bay is the camp’s major draw, which is why the season runs January to March.
A spyhopping grey whale fattens up before the long migration north. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
We spot the last few grey whales in the bay before they begin their great migration to their northern feeding grounds, undertaking one of the longest migrations of any mammal on the planet. It will take a week or two for Bryan’s team to strike camp, after which all signs of its existence will dissipate like fine sand in the onshore breeze. At least until next season, when the shifting dunes will host a new version of Camp Cecil de la Bahia. I implore Bryan and Sergio to extend next year’s season for us Canadian spring breakers. Whales or no whales, being comfortably immersed in this kind of remote coastal beauty is one for the bucket list.
How a guide exchange is deepening perspective, connection, and conservation from Namibia to Baja.
It started as a “what if” conversation—what if a guide from the Namib Desert could spend time in Baja’s marine world, and vice versa? What could they learn, not just about wildlife, but about people, place, and perspective?
That idea, first imagined by Bryan Jaurequi, has since taken on a life of its own within the Kusini Collection. Guide exchanges between Todos Santos Eco Adventures, Ultimate Safaris in Namibia, Imvelo Safari Lodges in Zimbabwe, and beyond have created meaningful connections across continents—rooted in shared values of conservation, culture, and community.
In the following article, published in the Namibia Economist, Peter Nuugonya reflects on his time in Baja, offering a perspective that feels both deeply personal and universally familiar: the awe of seeing a place—and your own work—through entirely new eyes. //
Ultimate guide Nuugonya splashed out by immersive experience in Mexican marine tourism
Ultimate Safaris’ best guide, Peter Nuugonya has just returned from Mexico after a three-week sojourn where he rubbed shoulders with the guides working for Todos Santos Eco Adventures.
Hailing from Ondangwa, Peter’s career in tourism started as a barman at the Sossusvlei Desert Lodge but it was here that he realised he enjoyed the outdoors far more than the bar counter. This is when he joined Ultimate Safaris where his childhood bush knowledge qualified him to take visitors on informative excursions. Last year, he won the company’s “Ultimate Guide of the Year” award with the main prize a sponsored trip to Mexico.
Ultimate Safaris Managing Director, Tristan Cowley, said “the guide exchange is a learning experience and a great opportunity for interaction between people on different sides of the world who may have differinnt geographies, wildlife and weather but who share the same dedication to conservation and community.”
Peter said his journey from the Namibian desert to Mexico’s vibrant marine ecosystems was nothing short of transformative. From snorkelling and scuba diving to whale watching and cooking classes, he embraced new experiences — both professionally and personally. This being his first major international travel, he shared that ending up on the other side of the world and being hosted by amazing people, helped him understand how Ultimate Safaris’ guests must feel, saying “it was a humbling and once in a lifetime experience.”
While the cultural experience in meeting locals was the highlight of his journey and something that reminded him how important local culture and cuisine are to any traveller, his ‘mind blowing’ encounter with whales and other marine life made him realise why people travel across the world, and that similar experiences are why visitors come to Namibia.
Later this year, a Mexican guide will travel to Namibia for the next chapter of this growing partnership between Ultimate Safaris and Todos Santos Eco Adventures which represents a model for global collaboration in eco-tourism.
Let us handle the details so you can relax in Baja this Thanksgiving holiday!
We just opened up 4 new casitas at Los Colibris Casitas! To celebrate, we’re offering this last minute Thanksgiving special to our repeat guests from Los Colibris and Todos Santos Eco Adventures.
2 nights at Camp Cecil de la Isla with all the adventures, meals, and happy hour. The adventures include so many of the things we’re thankful for in Baja: swimming with sea lions, snorkeling, kayaking, paddle boarding, birding, stargazing and hiking.