Lidia bulls are running wild in the mountains of Baja California Sur – at least those who can outrun Don Catarino Rosas Espinosa. Lidia bulls, also known as Spanish Fighting Bulls, are a distinctive breed of cattle from the Iberian Peninsula that are known for their aggressiveness, strength and stamina. They have nothing on Don Cata.
The Lidia bulls burst onto the Sierra La Laguna fauna scene in 1986 when a Miraflores rancher named Collins grew older and moved away, freeing his milk cows and bulls of different breeds to roam, including the Lidia bulls. In 1989 Don Cata, then 36 years old, struck a deal with the Collins descendants to round up as many of the bulls as possible in exchange for 35% of the proceeds when they were sold. His bull hunting career was launched.
“I hunted the bulls from my 30s through my 50s” recalls Don Cata, who still hunts feral pigs today at the age of 72. “Most of the bulls we encountered over the years were totally wild and had never seen humans before.” Don Cata had a remarkable methodology for hunting the bulls. “I always had two dogs, a Pitbull and a German Shepherd. I would look for the footprint of the bull, then send the dogs to run after it. I would run right behind them on foot as there was no way that horses or mules could navigate that terrain. Usually after the first 6 or 7 kilometers the dogs and I would catch up with the bull then he would run again. Usually after the third run – which sometimes meant a total 15 kilometers of terrain covered – the bull would finally tire and lean against a tree.”
Don Cata not only ran after the bull and the dogs, but did so while wearing two lengths of rope across his chest (“I looked like Pancho Villa”) and one around his waist. Once the bull finally tired and was resting against a tree, Don Cata would lasso its horns and tie its head to the tree with one rope, then use another rope to lasso a hind leg and tie it to another tree such that the rope would tighten when the bull struggled. He would then use the third rope to lasso the bull’s front legs. That third lasso would bring the bull down and Don Cata would then tie up the final hind leg. So far so good.
But Don Cata, who is all of 72 kilograms / 158 pounds, now has a seriously angry, 600 kilo / 1,300 pound animal – whose breed is notorious for its aggressiveness – tied up in rugged mountain terrain while traveling on foot. He only gets paid when he delivers the bull alive several thousand feet below. Sheer physicality, stamina and mad cowboy skills have gotten him this far. Now it’s time to out psych the bull. “The bulls were so angry that they usually needed about 90 minutes to calm down” recalls Don Cata, “so the dogs and I would wait downwind while they quieted. Then I would go back, release one of the legs and tie a stick to the foreleg such that it stopped the bull from running. I would then leave again and let the bull get used to the stick. Then the next time the bull saw me he would be very tired and very afraid of me, so I could release all the ropes. If he lunged for me I could parry him away with a stick that I used like a lance. In this way I could get a bull down the mountain in 2-3 days.”
Don Cata created a type of corral where he would collect 18 to 20 bulls, put bells on them, then get them to the road where a truck would pick them up, weigh them and deliver them to the Collins family. “I got over 600 bulls like this” recalls Dona Cata. In a masterful piece of understatement about his running skills Don Cata notes, “I was fast.”
The bulls scored some points as well. “Once I was tying a bull’s head to a tree and trying to do it quickly because the bull had already closed its eyes in anticipation of hitting me. I was moving fast and slipped. My rope was round the bull’s head so when I went down the whole 600 kilo body of the bull came down on top of me. It really messed up my knee.” A local rancher patched him up and suggested he put his bull hunting days behind him. “I didn’t listen. 3 days later I was running after the bulls again.” (His knee remains a little wonky looking to this day.) And one bull did succeed in head-butting him. Luckily the horn just grazed his skull but the force caused the fur of the bull’s head to burn his ear.
As he moved into his 50s Don Cata took on another feral animal – pigs. “When I was a child ranchers used to raise a lot of pigs, not to sell, just to eat. When the hurricanes hit the pigs would head to the hills to eat all the acorns, pine nuts etc that had been blown off the trees, then head back home.”
Then in 1997 a major hurricane hit off the coast of Los Cabos and it rained for 3 days straight. This created an enormous bounty of food and water for the pigs so in the ensuing years their population exploded. “There were so many pigs that they were eating all the grass in the valley of the mountain and really damaging the ecosystem” recalls Don Cata. The Sierra La Laguna Biosphere Reserve park authorities decided that some of the pigs needed to be eradicated so they contracted Don Cata for the job. “Thankfully the pigs prefer terrain that is accessible by horse and mule” the older Don Cata laughingly notes.
While pig hunting requires less stamina than bull hunting, it is infinitely more dangerous. The pigs have long, sharp tusks and are extremely strong. To catch them, Don Cata sends his dog to track a pig and grab it by the ear. Don Cata then gets off his horse, picks the pig up by its hind leg, and shoots it. While many ranchers use knives for the kill, Don Cata hunts with CIBNOR, the Centro de Investigaciones Biológicas del Noroeste S.C., and they want to weigh and measure the pigs without the blood loss that accompanies a knife wound. CIBNOR takes samples of each pig’s organs to make sure the pig is healthy enough to be eaten. Says Don Cata, “I usually hunt for 4 days and come down with 80 to 100 kilos of meat to sell.” Don Cata reckons he’s caught over 1,000 pigs.
Pig hunting is intimate business and Don Cata has far more scars from pigs than bulls. It is therefore perhaps not surprising to learn that while Don Cata is famous for his hunting skills, he is legendary for his healing skills, and people come from all across the state to seek his help.
Don Cata is the patriarch of the Rosas family and preserving the ranchero way of life is a key family goal at their beautiful Rancho Ecológico el Refugio in the Sierra mountains. Don Cata himself embodies the ranchero ideal, with both the strength and skill to confront wild forces and the wisdom and talent to restore health and balance in his community. He manifests a profound connection with nature. He is a hunter-healer.
This trip was hosted. All opinions expressed are entirely my own.
Like many travelers to Mexico, we wore a wristband. But ours didn’t allow access to buffets, unlimited cocktails, pools or nightly shows. Instead, it gave us the privilege of exploring a protected natural marine ecosystem that Jacque Cousteau once called ‘the aquarium of the world’.
An Overview of Camp Cecil de la Isla
Sunset view at Camp Cecil de la Isla. Photo Credit: Jennifer Merrick
For three glorious nights, we slept on the beach in luxe tents with real beds on the uninhabited Espiritu Santo Island. This wildlife haven is part of a Mexican national park of the same name and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famous for its vibrant marine life, dramatic volcanic landscape and rich biodiversity.
Todos Santos Eco Adventures (TOSEA), a local family-owned business hosts this intimate (16 guests max) and eco-conscious adventure. It includes highly-trained guides, all activities and equipment, accommodations, transportation to the island, daily happy hours, all meals and park entrance fees.
Included Activities
Sea lion in the Sea of Cortez. Photo Credit: Colin Ruggiero
Swimming with Sea Lions
On Los Islotes (Rock Islets) hundreds of sea lions lounged on the shore, looking lazy and moving ungainly. Under the water they transformed into graceful and curious creatures whose flips, swooshes and spins seemed as choreographed as an underwater ballet. And then this happened: a pup looked through my snorkel mask, directly into my eyes and flipped under me, grazing my stomach – twice. A truly magical encounter.
SheBuysTravel Tip: Adhere to the online packing list, which includes essentials like warm layers for cooler desert nights, reef-safe sunscreen, insect repellent, and a reusable water bottle.
Paddling the Waters
Kayaking excursion at Camp Cecil de la Isla. Photo Credit: Jennifer Merrick
We explored an inlet close to our camping site, where jagged volcanic cliffs dwarfed our kayaks and the clearest turquoise water imaginable invited us to swim. On the way back a devil ray jumped out of the water right in front of us. Paddleboards are also available.
Pelicans feeding on sardines. Photo Credit: Jennifer Merrick
Spotting Wildlife on the Tortuga (turtle) Highway
The turtles draw visitors to this secluded cove. But the pelicans stole the show on our visit. Dozens of these large, prehistoric-looking birds hovered in and above the water, feeding on the sardines below the surface. Watching them dive expertly into the water mesmerized us. And yes, we did see turtles, too. They popped in and out of the water as if they were playing a game of hide and seek.
Cardon Cactus on Isla Partida. Photo Credit: Jennifer Merrick
Hiking the ‘Funnel’ on Isla Partida
Our guide, Bernardo, shared his extensive knowledge of the desert plants on this stunning island, located next to Espiritu Santo Island, where we were camping. The towering Cardon Cacti were the prickly stars, but the desert revealed a richness of vegetation that surprised us. We scrambled up rocks to a lookout point that wowed us with the contrast of the browns and reds of the rocky cliffs with the emerald green of the sea below.
A reef in the Archipelago of Espiritu Santo National Park. Photo Credit: Colin Ruggiero
Snorkeling the World’s Aquarium
Other excursions to the region’s reefs explain why Cousteau gave the region its name. Schools of tropical fish darted around us, with king angelfish, balloon pufferfish and parrotfish being among the colorful inhabitants.
Relaxing on the beach on Espiritu Santo Island. Photo Credit: Colin Ruggiero
Lounging on a Pristine Beach
Just because there’s the option of morning and afternoon activities, doesn’t mean you’re obligated to take them. Soaking up the sun, napping and sipping cervezas are perfectly acceptable activity choices.
Happy hour at Camp Cecil de la Isla. Photo Credit: Jennifer Merrick
Indulging in Happy Hours and Al Fresco Dining
I still have no idea how our chef created such amazing meals with only a couple of camp stoves. The seafood was swimming-in-the-morning fresh and the tortillas were camp-made. All our companions’ dietary considerations were accommodated. A daily happy hour just as the sky started to put on its rosy sunset show featured local favorite cocktails like margaritas and hibiscus mezcalitas.
Friends relax in their tent at Camp Cecil de la Isla. Photo Credit: Jennifer Merrick
Who’s the right traveler for Camp Cecil de la Isla?
Best For:
Nature lovers, snorkelers, kayakers and campers
Multi-gen families since each member can tailor their adventure to their comfort level
Glampers who like a soft bed and great food
Don’t Go If You:
Are squeamish about outdoor toilets and showers
Have mobility issues that would impede you from getting out of a boat and walking up to the beach
Can’t stand being out of cell service
Blue-footed boobies delight with their bright tootsies. Photo Credit: Colin Ruggiero
Fun Facts
The Sea of Cortez is home to over 891 fish species and 39% of the world’s marine mammal species, including humpback whales, orcas, bottlenose dolphins, sea otters, and, of course, sea lions.
The largest fish on the planet (up to 59 feet and 15 tons), the whale shark, congregates here from October to April, providing opportunities to observe and snorkel with these gentle giants.
Todos Santos Eco Adventures (TOSEA) has garnered multiple awards for its commitment to sustainability and conservation. Solar power, a leave-no-trace policy, no single-use plastics are just a few of their green initiatives.
Isla Espiritu Santo is home to ancient cave paintings believed to be over 6000 years old.
Rare and unique indigenous species include the blue-footed booby (this bird famous for its bright blue feet is more associated with the Galapagos but is also found here), the babisuri or the ringtail cat (a relative of the raccoon) and the vaquita (a member of the porpoise family that’s the world’s smallest and rarest marine mammal).
The region also has mountains. Many visitors are surprised by the Baja Californian peaks when they arrive. TOSEA also offers a glamping experience that highlights the unique ecosystem of the mountains and the vaquero (cowboy) culture.
Getting There
La Paz International Airport is the closest to the island. Several airlines offer direct flights from major US cities, including Dallas and Phoenix. Los Cabos International Airport (SJD) is another option (about a two-hour drive to La Paz). TOSEA can arrange transportation from the airports. Once in La Paz, all transportation to the island (approximately a 60-minute boat ride) is included in the experience.
The Mission is Simple: Empower Guides, foster cross-cultural conservation practices, and celebrate world ecosystems.
Todos Santos Eco Adventures is a proud member of the Kusini Collection, a hand-picked portfolio of sustainable, owner/founder-operated camps, lodges and tour operators in Africa, Asia and the Americas. Some years ago we presented the idea of a guide exchange program with the other members. We’re extremely thrilled to share that it is a complete success and continues to grow and enrich the lives of not only our guides but all of us! A recent exchange just took place with Ultimate Safaris from Namibia and they have shared the following.
“As a leader in conservation-based luxury travel in Namibia, we have once again demonstrated our commitment to people and the planet with our third consecutive international guide exchange, investing over N$ 300,000 into the initiative since its inception.
This year, Jason Nengola, Ultimate Safaris’ 2024 Ultimate Guide of the Year, travelled to Baja California, Mexico, for a three-week immersion experience with Todos Santos Eco Adventures. The exchange underscores a shared mission between the two companies: to empower guides, foster cross-cultural conservation practices, and celebrate the ecosystems they passionately protect.
“The guide swap initiative is a great opportunity for interaction and learning between people on different sides of the world who may have differing geographies, wildlife, and weather—but who share the same dedication to conservation and community,” said Tristan Cowley, Co-founder and Managing Director of Ultimate Safaris.
Jason’s journey from Namibia’s vast deserts to Mexico’s vibrant marine ecosystems was nothing short of transformative. From snorkeling and scuba diving to whale watching and leather-making from cactus, Jason embraced new perspectives—both professionally and personally.
“Imagine Damaraland with an ocean,” Jason remarked. “Being a guest, not a guide, helped me understand how our guests must feel. It was a humbling and eye-opening experience.”
He encountered four species of whales—Blue, Humpback, Fin, and Grey—an awe-inspiring highlight that shifted his perspective on control, nature, and the role of a guide. In addition to nature-based activities, the exchange allowed Jason to explore Mexico’s strong connection to its local culture and cuisine—an experience that left a lasting impression.
“In Namibia, we have so many rich cultures and traditions to share,” he said. “The food in Mexico inspired me to think about how we can better incorporate Namibian cuisine into our guest experiences.”
Jason also reconnected with Axel Herrera, a Todos Santos guide who had previously visited Namibia through the same exchange program—reinforcing the mutual value and long-term relationships fostered by this initiative.
Later this year, a Mexican guide will travel to Namibia for the next chapter of this growing partnership, continuing the spirit of knowledge-sharing, cultural appreciation, and environmental stewardship.
The Ultimate Safaris and Todos Santos Eco Adventures guide exchange initiative represents a model for global collaboration in eco-tourism—building not only better guides, but stronger bridges between continents, cultures, and conservation efforts.”
Recently REMOTE LA placed a spotlight on the efforts of select partners, who are demonstrating that Latin America and the Caribbean are not just embracing sustainable and regenerative tourism—they are shaping a resilient future. Through carbon offset and capture programs, conservation initiatives, responsible business practices and bold climate action plans, these companies are proving that tourism can—and must—be a force for good. Their work reassures us that conscious international travelers can continue to visit Latin America while actively contributing to the well-being of its destinations.
We proudly share what they had to say about us:
Todos Santos Eco Adventures (TOSEA) is at the forefront of responsible tourism in Baja California Sur, Mexico, integrating sustainability into every aspect of its operations. As a member of the Global Sustainable Tourism Council (GSTC) and a signatory of the Future of Tourism Coalition, TOSEA spearheads initiatives that drive conservation and sustainability in the region. One of its most ambitious projects is supporting the Alianza Cero Basura, which works to establish Mexico’s first Zero Waste destination in Todos Santos and El Pescadero, setting a groundbreaking precedent for responsible tourism.
TOSEA is also taking decisive action against climate change through its partnership with Tomorrow’s Air, significantly increasing its contributions to carbon capture, having successfully removed and stored three tons of CO₂ so far. Their holistic approach to sustainability extends beyond waste reduction and emissions mitigation. TOSEA is deeply involved in conservation efforts and embedding regenerative principles into its tourism model, demonstrating that sustainability is not just about minimizing harm; it’s about fostering a thriving future for both local communities and the environment.
Todos Santos Eco Adventures was proudly featured in Wander Magazine’s Wanderlust Issue and we’re feeling it! You can view the full magazine here or dive into the article about us right below.
Summer Camp for Grown-Ups in Mexico’s Baja California Sur
Don Cata created a type of corral where he would collect 18 to 20 bulls, put bells on them, then get them to the road where a truck would pick them up, weigh them and deliver them to the Collins family. “I got over 600 bulls like this” recalls Dona Cata. In a masterful piece of understatement about his running skills Don Cata notes, “I was fast.”
Then in 1997 a major hurricane hit off the coast of Los Cabos and it rained for 3 days straight. This created an enormous bounty of food and water for the pigs so in the ensuing years their population exploded. “There were so many pigs that they were eating all the grass in the valley of the mountain and really damaging the ecosystem” recalls Don Cata. The Sierra La Laguna Biosphere Reserve park authorities decided that some of the pigs needed to be eradicated so they contracted Don Cata for the job. “Thankfully the pigs prefer terrain that is accessible by horse and mule” the older Don Cata laughingly notes.
This year, Jason Nengola, Ultimate Safaris’ 2024 Ultimate Guide of the Year, travelled to Baja California, Mexico, for a three-week immersion experience with Todos Santos Eco Adventures. The exchange underscores a shared mission between the two companies: to empower guides, foster cross-cultural conservation practices, and celebrate the ecosystems they passionately protect.
