Marine Mania – Sea of Cortez

Marine Mania – Sea of Cortez

Marine Mania –
Sea of Cortez

A trifecta of up-close encounters of the marine kind!

We start off this feast of a day by visiting the whale sharks in the Bay of La Paz*. Each year the whale sharks congregate here from roughly late October through late April, and we have the opportunity to observe and even snorkel with them. DYK: whales are mammals, sharks are fish, and the whale shark gets its moniker from being the largest fish on the planet. At up to 59 feet and 15 tons it is definitely a whale of a shark!

From the Bay of La Paz we head north a few miles to Isla Gaviota, a Blue-footed Booby rookery, to check out our azure-footed friends. Many people think you have to go all the way to the Galapagos to find the boobies, but there are several colonies right here in the Sea of Cortez.

Just a little north of Isla Gaviota is the sea lion colony of San Rafaelito, where we’ll have the indescribable joy of snorkeling and playing with the fun-loving young sea lions. When we simply can’t keep up with them anymore, we’ll head straight to the calming beauty of Balandra Bay, dazzling with its white beaches and crystal-clear waters.

Once at Balandra Bay, we’ll enjoy a picnic lunch on one of the beautiful beaches and take our time to snorkel or walk if we’re so inclined. The van will pick us up at Balandra for the transfer back to Todos Santos. A remarkable day.

Duration

  • Full Day

Price

  • Min 4 guests: MXN 6,300 or USD $315/person
  • A 16% IVA tax will be added to all prices

Includes

  • Bilingual naturalist guide/professionally licensed driver who is a certified Wilderness First Responder, NOM-9 graduate and Leave No Trace certified
  • Roundtrip transportation from Todos Santos in a private vehicle. (90 minutes each way)
  • Private boat and captain in the Sea of Cortez, including the Bay of La Paz and Balandra Bay
  • Swimming with whale sharks and sea lions, visiting Blue-footed Booby rookery
  • All gear, including snorkel and wetsuits
  • Delicious picnic lunch

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Going Green

  • This trip is carbon neutral
  • No single-use plastics are used
  • All organic waste is composted and all eligible materials are recycled

Tomorrow's Air

Carbon removal from our atmosphere is essential in addressing the world's climate crisis. We are a proud carbon capture education partner with Tomorrow's Air and have supported the removal of one ton of carbon dioxide from the air. Learn more!

What to Bring

  • Swimsuit, towel + beach shoes
  • Reef-friendly sunblock
  • Hat & Sunglasses
  • Dry clothes for return drive

*Swimming with whale sharks in the Bay of La Paz is a tightly regulated program designed to both protect the sharks and to enhance the human experience of enjoying these magnificent beings in their home environment.

Kayaking in the Sea of Cortez

Kayaking in the Sea of Cortez

Kayaking in the
Sea of Cortez

Paddling the pristine waters of the ‘Aquarium of the World’!

When it comes to sea kayaking, the place to go is the Sea of Cortez! This UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to 39% of the world’s total number of marine mammal species, accounts for a third of the world’s marine cetacean species, and has 891 fish species. The remarkable scenery is formed by a rugged shoreline, desert islands and white sandy beaches where you can admire the contrast and reflection of the desert with turquoise waters.

This paddle includes a trip around La Gaviota, an active Blue-footed Booby rookery, where it’s possible to see many of our azure-footed friends enjoying the sunshine. The next stop is San Rafaelito, a permanent sea lion colony where we’ll have the chance to snorkel and engage with the joyous sea lions pups. We wrap up the day with a delicious home made lunch on a secluded beach. A perfect Baja day!

Duration

  • Full Day

Price

  • 2-3 guests: MXN 4,200 or USD $210/person
  • 4+ guests: MXN 3,900 or USD $195/person
  • A 16% IVA tax will be added to all prices

Includes

  • Round-trip transportation Todos Santos/La Paz
  • Bilingual naturalist guide who is a certified Wilderness First Responder, a NOM-9 graduate and Leave No Trace Certified
  • Picnic lunch
  • All necessary gear/equipment
  • Park permits 

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Going Green

  • This trip is carbon neutral
  • No single-use plastics are used
  • All organic waste is composted and all eligible materials are recycled

Tomorrow's Air

Carbon removal from our atmosphere is essential in addressing the world's climate crisis. We are a proud carbon capture education partner with Tomorrow's Air and have supported the removal of one ton of carbon dioxide from the air. Learn more!

What to Bring

  • Swimsuit, towel + beach shoes
  • Reef-friendly sunblock
  • Hat & Sunglasses
  • Dry clothes for return drive

Swimming with Sea Lions

Swimming with Sea Lions

Swimming with Sea Lions
A marine wildlife extravaganza of a day!
We depart Todos Santos for La Paz, get our gear, hop in the boats, then it’s off to the unbelievable joy of swimming and playing with the sea lion puppies at the permanent sea lion colony of Los Islotes.

These fun-loving marine mammals love playing and interacting with humans, and are always disappointed that we can never keep up a game of tag as long as they can. Getting to the sea lion colony is half the fun of the day, as we regularly see dolphins, whales, mantas, sea turtles, coastal birds and more on the way there and back.

We cap off this wonderful day with a delicious picnic lunch at one of the gorgeous beaches on the incomparable Isla Espiritu Santo. It’s an absolutely fabulous day!

Duration

  • Full Day

Price

  • 2-3 guests: MXN 4,600 or USD $230/person
  • 4 + guests: MXN 4,300 or USD $215/person
  • A 16% IVA tax will be added to all prices

Includes

  • Roundtrip Todos Santos/La Paz transportation
  • Bilingual, naturalist guide who is a certified Wilderness First Responder, NOM-9 graduate and Leave No Trace certified
  • Boat/captain/snorkeling gear
  • Delicious picnic lunch on Isla Espiritu Santo

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Going Green

  • This trip is carbon neutral
  • No single-use plastics are used
  • All organic waste is composted and all eligible materials are recycled

Tomorrow's Air

Carbon removal from our atmosphere is essential in addressing the world's climate crisis. We are a proud carbon capture education partner with Tomorrow's Air and have supported the removal of one ton of carbon dioxide from the air. Learn more!

What to Bring

  • Swimsuit, towel + beach shoes
  • Reef-friendly sunblock
  • Hat & Sunglasses
  • Dry clothes for return drive

Gray Whale Watching

Gray Whale Watching

Gray Whale Watching
A magnificent day on Magdalena Bay!

Each year the magnificent gray whales migrate 6,000 miles south from the Bering Sea to mate and give birth in the warm water lagoons of the Baja peninsula. From Todos Santos we have the wonderful opportunity to spend a day in Puerto Chale on Magdalena Bay, connecting with these amazing fellow mammals and travelers. Things that often happen to us when we visit the gray whales:

  • Gray whale
  • Mothers bring their babies up to the boat to say hello
  • Gray whale babies present themselves for a good rub or a pat
  • Gray whale males sidle along the boat and spout water on us –they clearly think it’s very funny
  • Gray whale couples roll languidly by, completely ignoring us as they enjoy some Baja romance
  • Gray whales of all types bring their huge heads out of the water and look us straight in the eye

And that’s just to give you an idea! The connections possible with our fellow mammals in the lagoons of Magdalena Bay are absolutely wondrous and should be at the top of any bucket list you may be creating.

Duration

  • Full Day

Price

  • 2 guests: MXN 12,000 or USD $600/person
  • 3-4 guests: MXN 8,000 or USD $400/person
  • 5-6 guests: MXN 6,000 or USD $300/person
  • A 16% IVA tax will be added to all prices

Includes

  • Bilingual naturalist guide/professionally licensed driver who is a certified Wilderness First Responder, NOM-9 graduate and Leave No Trace certified
  • Roundtrip private transportation from Todos Santos (2.5-3 hours each way)
  • Boat and captain in Puerto Chale
  • Three hours of whale watching
  • Delicious picnic lunch

Note: This adventure is available from January 25 – March 15 yearly

Share This

Going Green

  • This trip is carbon neutral
  • No single-use plastics are used
  • All organic waste is composted and all eligible materials are recycled

Tomorrow's Air

Carbon removal from our atmosphere is essential in addressing the world's climate crisis. We are a proud carbon capture education partner with Tomorrow's Air and have supported the removal of one ton of carbon dioxide from the air. Learn more!

What to Bring

  • Reef-friendly sunblock
  • Hat & Sunglasses
  • Dry clothes for return drive

Camp Cecil de la Isla featured in Afar Magazine’s article on escaping the crowds in Mexico

Camp Cecil de la Isla featured in Afar Magazine’s article on escaping the crowds in Mexico

7 Ways to Escape the Crowds in Mexico

Here’s how to craft an offbeat adventure a little more removed from the typical places.

Ruins in the middle of a forest
Avoid the crowds and head into lesser-visited places like Sierra Madre mountains.

Photo by Eleni Mavrandoni/Shutterstock

Traveling off the tourist trail in Mexico isn’t simply about dodging the crowds. It’s about the thrill of a colectivo ride through forested landscapes and the awe of stumbling upon a secluded beach where yours are the only footprints.

Many travelers know the cabana-laden beaches of Cancun and the galleries and rooftop scene of San Miguel de Allende. But if you’re ready to trade your resort wristband for a pair of hiking boots or a plate of something you’ve never heard of, lesser-known small towns and quiet islands are calling.

Town with desert mountains in the background
Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos are spread throughout the country.

Photo by Newtonian/Shutterstock

1. Find magic beyond the usual suspects

Mexico’s 177 Pueblos Mágicos (Magical Towns) are villages that the government deems particularly charming. While many (like Todos Santos) call their fair share of influencers, not all of them are tourist-packed Instagram traps. Take Calvillo, Aguascalientes, in central Mexico: This guava-scented haven, one of the world’s biggest producers of tropical fruit, is a far cry from the likes of Sayulita. Here, the streets are quieter, the guava candy is abundant, and the town is at the doorstep to the Sierra Fría, known for hiking trails and waterfalls.

If you’re a fan of history and architecture, head to Ahuacatlán or Amatlán de Cañas in western Mexico, both of which offer a peek into the country’s colonial past. The Jesús Nazareno church in Amatlán de Cañas dates back to the 18th century.

2. Embrace the mercado scene

Mexico’s markets are sensory overload in the best way—rows of stalls selling freshly made tortillas, sizzling tacos al pastor, and unrecognizable fruits you’ll want to check out. In lesser-visited towns, markets are a cultural exchange, where you can chat with vendors and maybe learn the secret to their abuela’s mole recipe.

Mexico City‘s food markets are truly the heartbeat of the city’s culinary and cultural experience,” sayes Karla Tovar, a team member at Bikes and Munchies, a cycling and food tour company based in Mexico City. “Exploring them is one of the best ways to dive into the local food scene and understand the traditions that shape Mexican cuisine.”

While in Mexico City, she recommends hitting up markets like Mercado San Juan for gourmet and exotic food lovers, Mercado de Coyoacan for traditional Mexican snacks, or the Mercado de Jamaica for fresh flowers and traditional food like tlacoyos, which are stuffed corn masa cakes.

Oaxaca‘s Mercado 20 de November is another such dizzying display. Overflowing burlap sacks of multi-colored spices sit next to barrels of dried chilies, while the smell of achiote wafts through the air. Wander the aisles to uncover everything from crispy tlayudas (charcoal-grilled tortillas topped with meat, beans, and vegetables) to roasted grasshoppers.

Over in the central city of Puebla, visit the Mercado de Sabores and pick up a plump, overstuffed cemita, a thick sandwich filled with meat, avocado, cheese, and chipotle.

Purple car driving through a street
Colectivos are usually privately owned.

Photo by astudio/Shutterstock

3. Public transport is your best friend

Think Mexico is all about flights and rental cars? Think again. Try hopping on a bus or a colectivo (a small, shared van), where you’ll ride with locals and, sometimes, a badly dubbed action movie playing on repeat, depending on the length of the trip. Plus, you may meet other travelers and dust off your Spanish with locals.

Buses and colectivos, with their many stops connecting remote parts of the country, make it easier to get to more hard-to-reach destinations. In Yucatan, for example, colectivos can take you from bustling Merida to the white-sand beaches of Celestun and other towns along the Gulf Coast.

Small dolls on display
The Night of the Radishes is an annual event held on December 23.

Photo by Just Another Photographer/Shutterstock

4. Celebrate like a local

While Cancun has its foam parties, smaller towns throw celebrations that are both intimate and electrifying. Whether it’s the Festival de Calaveras (end of October/early November) in Aguascalientes or the Guelaguetza Indigenous culture celebration festival in Oaxaca (July), you’ll find music, dancing, and food that outshines any resort buffet.

The Fiesta de la Candelaria in Tlacotalpan, a town by the Gulf of Mexico, blends Spanish and Afro-Cuban influences. Son jarocho music, a local guitar folk music fusing Spanish, Indigenous, and African culture, fills the air in early February as residents dress in vibrant red costumes.

And definitely don’t skip the quirkier festivals. How about the Noche de Rábanos (Night of the Radishes), when people create works of art out of the vegetable, in Oaxaca? Or a gathering of healers and shamans in Catemaco, Veracruz, for La Noche de Brujas (Night of the Witches)?

5. Dive into nature

“While much better known for its rich history and culture, Mexico is one of the most biodiverse countries in the world and offers world-class wildlife, nature, and adventure opportunities for even the most well traveled,” says Zach Rabinor, CEO of travel agency Journey Mexico.

Start with Espíritu Santo, a UNESCO-protected island off the coast of La Paz. Here, turquoise waters meet pink sandstone cliffs, and the sea lions are always ready for a swim. Authorized tours like On Board Baja will take you sailing around the island, hiking along its rugged trails, and picnicking on its remote beaches.

For an off-grid experience, Islas Marías is your next stop. Once a penal colony, this cluster of islands opened for tourism in 2024 offers a glimpse into dozens of endemic species. Because the islands are located 60 miles off the Pacific Coast of Nayarit, the only way to get there is by ferry. You can depart from either Mazatlan or San Blas and, currently, all visitors must be part of a three-day, two-night package that includes a tour guide and accommodations.

And let’s not forget the parks and preserves: Las Pozas in Xilitla is full of waterfalls and jungle paths, while El Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve in Baja California Sur offers whale-watching and desert landscapes that are awe inspiring. (Baja Ecotours specializes in whale-watching tours in the biosphere.)

6. Reconsider the resort

Ditch the cookie-cutter resorts and check into boutique hotels and haciendas in small towns. They’re not only more intimate but also steeped in the area’s culture. Take the Hacienda el Carmen Hotel & Spa, which occupies a 17th-century structure less than 50 miles from Guadalajara. Inside the ochre-and-brick facade, guests can dine alfresco to the sounds of classical guitar, while a small spa and stables set the scene for on-site activities.

If you’re loving your time on Island Espiritu Santo, consider a glamping adventure with Todos Santos Eco Adventures’ Camp Cecil. Overlooking one of the uninhabited island’s most attractive beaches, the camp features cozy tents, an on-site chef, and drinks under the stars.

Ruins surrounded by flat land
Travel to Progreso and you can visit Mayan ruins.

Photo by Cenz07/Shutterstock

7. Avoid major cruise ports

If you’re cruising around Mexico, steer clear of itineraries that stick to well-trodden ports like Cozumel or Cabo San Lucas. Instead, seek cruises that stop at lesser-known places such as Loreto, where you can kayak in the Sea of Cortez, or Progreso, a gateway to the Yucatan’s cenotes and ancient ruins.

By avoiding major ports, you’ll bypass crowds of disembarking passengers and enjoy a more relaxed, authentic vibe. Smaller coastal towns and islands like La Paz or Huatulco offer scenic beaches and seafood to rival the big-name spots like Puerto Vallarta or Cabo San Lucas—without the chaos.

Camp Cecil de la Isla featured in Afar Magazine’s article on escaping the crowds in Mexico

Is Zero-Waste Travel Actually Even Possible?

April, 2024

Travelers today are more conscious of their environmental footprint, even if it often seems abstract. But what about the trail of waste travelers create?

Todos Santos, Mexico, is beloved for its rugged coastline and wilderness.
Todos Santos is beloved for its rugged coastline and water. Josh Withers/Unsplash

The shimmering emerald cove beckons; reaching it requires a trek up the cacti-dotted cliffs under the Baja sun, then a scramble across boulders on a small beach. But if you arrive at the right time, the water is calm enough for a swim, and you may spot sea lions on the rocks or a whale in the distance. You might also, unfortunately, see a few plastic bottles.

This popular trail in Todos Santos, Baja California Sur, became a favorite of mine during the nearly two years I was based there. Now the small town is grappling with the effects of enchanted visitors who end up staying (hello, me), and it’s trying to avoid going the way of other overdeveloped coastal areas—ones without the infrastructure to support rapid growth, thus ending up with overflowing landfills and waste that leaches into the ocean (hello, Tulum).

“How do we prevent ourselves from becoming just another overrun beach town?” Bryan Jáuregui says. She’s a founding member of Alianza Cero Basura – Zero Waste Alliance, a community-led initiative to implement a plan for a zero-waste future for Todos Santos and the neighboring town of El Pescadero. Jáuregui’s question has urgency: These towns are located in Baja California Sur, the least populated but fastest-growing state in Mexico. As the co-owner of Todos Santos Eco Adventures and Los Colibris Casitas boutique hotel, she calls it “enlightened self-interest” to take on her town’s waste problem.

This tension is not unique to Baja. Around the world, destinations are struggling to balance tourism and economic growth for locals while protecting their natural resources. And even though travelers are more conscious of their environmental footprints than ever, what can they realistically do about them? Is leaving behind zero waste during travel even possible?

Born out of the 1970s ethos of environmental advocacy, the zero-waste movement is focused on sending as little material waste to landfills as possible. The “five Rs” of a zero-waste lifestyle, coined by Bea Johnson in her book, Zero Waste Home, are the movement’s mantra: refuse, reduce, reuse, recycle, and rot (i.e., compost).

A growing number of individuals are embracing these concepts at home: They are eschewing single-use plastics, purchasing bulk items at grocery stores, and taking their food scraps to community compost centers. It gets harder, however, to keep this mindset on the road: Most travelers eat out for most meals and, depending on where they go, don’t necessarily have access to potable drinking water. Travelers are inherently overconsumers.

In some places, tourists generate up to twice as much waste as residents due to the packaged goods they buy, including travel-size toiletries. Eight out of 10 tourists visit coastal areas, contributing to the 8 million tons of plastic that enters oceans and kills 100,000 marine animals a year, according to the United Nations Environment Programme. But it’s more than plastic; often overlooked is food waste. The hotel industry alone produces 79,000 tons of food waste yearly. Cruise ships can generate about 1.3 pounds per person per day on average. Cutting down can make a significant difference, says Vishal Kumar, CEO of Waste Warriors, a nonprofit in the Indian Himalayan Region.

“The creation of less waste means less demand for the production, packaging, and distribution of goods, which results in reduced greenhouse gas emissions throughout the value chain,” Kumar says. When organic waste is dumped into landfills, it releases methane, which has 20 to 80 times more global warming potential than CO2. Aiming for zero waste, then, is a climate solution.

We don’t need 12 people doing zero waste perfectly each year. We need 12 thousand, or 12 million people doing it imperfectly. Court Whelan

In 2007, Natural Habitat Adventures eliminated plastic water bottles from their trips and became the world’s first carbon-neutral travel company. It then took on another ever-growing environmental issue: waste.

Twelve years later, in July 2019, the company led the world’s first zero-waste trip in Yellowstone National Park. To divert 99 percent of the trip’s waste—which would otherwise end up in a landfill—guests carried bamboo cutlery that they washed between meals and a compost bucket for all uneaten food scraps.

While Natural Habitat Adventures isn’t leading 100 percent zero-waste adventures anymore, that doesn’t mean the experiment failed. “We learned that zero waste is possible. However, it is indeed very resource- and time-intensive,” says Court Whelan, chief sustainability officer of Natural Habitat Adventures, of the 18 months researching and planning for the trip.

“I don’t think the extreme confines of zero-waste travel is the end goal. I think examples of zero waste, whether it’s on a certain trip or camp, leave an inspirational echo across the industry.” It’s more about instigating change, and any “waste-lessening movement” is moving toward the goal line, he adds.

“We don’t need 12 people doing zero waste perfectly each year. We need 12 thousand or 12 million people doing it imperfectly.”

One of the best ways travelers can work toward a zero-waste mindset on the road is to dig deeper into where their dollars are going.

Alianza Cero Basura created a way for travelers to support businesses in Todos Santos and El Pescadero that self-assess their waste-reductions impact with a directory of Waste Wise All Stars. Beyond using this guide to find local restaurants and hotels actively working to reduce their waste, travelers can fill up their water bottles at one of Alianza’s refill stations installed throughout town. Alianza also created the first community-led organic waste farm and research center in Baja California Sur; it produces soil-enhancing products and compost, diverting 60 percent of the town’s organic waste from the landfill.

Meanwhile, Norwegian cruise company Hurtigruten—which banned single-use plastics in 2018 and has introduced zero-emissions vehicles and hybrid-powered cruise ships—in April 2024 launched a zero-edible-food-waste program with a goal to, well, reduce food waste to zero grams per guest. Edible food waste from Hurtigruten’s Original Coastal Express ships, which sail along the coast of Norway, will be composted and sent to a local farm that will use it to cultivate products that Hurtigruten will use in its menus. “Farm to fleet to farm” is its goal.

Still, the most obvious and easiest way to create less waste is by refusing. Consider: The more things we acquire, the more things will become waste. On the road, think about what you need. Can you split dishes with your fellow travelers? Get bulk snacks for your road trip? Share some gear instead of everyone packing their own?

Another simple habit is employing reusables—and not just a water bottle. You can buy a zero-waste travel kit, or make one of your own, which could include a reusable tote bag (I carry my trusty Baggu bag on every trip); a reusable silverware kit that doesn’t look like camping gear; and bags and capsules to carry toiletries. My collection of silicone Stasher bags are for more than packing snacks; I use them to carry all my toiletries, which are poured into my magnetic, stackable Cadence Refillable Travel Capsules.

Pack light, and pack items that have multiple uses. Not only does doing so lessen your carbon footprint, but also it can save your sanity and budget. Instead of buying new gear for every trip, consider renting or buying used gear: On a ski trip in Aspen this year, I rented ski pants from Suit Yourself, a mobile ski clothes outfitter. Kit Lender rents outdoor gear and apparel, and Patagonia and REI let you buy and sell your clothing. (Check out AFAR’s guide to places to buy used clothing gear.) Root Adventures also discourages buying new gear by offering a subsidy for any pretrip gear repair, and it includes gear rentals in the trip price.

Mindsets change—maybe not overnight, but slowly, actions create momentum and conservation culture grows. One of the best ways to do this is to let your dollars do the talking, Whelan says. “Single-use is technically easier. Are we happier people because we are consistently able to make and do the easiest thing possible?”

Zero-waste travel is indeed complicated to attempt and even more difficult to adopt perfectly. When we travel, we’re always pushing ourselves—to climb that mountain, to make that plane connection, to attempt that phrase in Spanish. When we put the effort in, we’re rewarded. Leaving nothing behind is just another mindset to get used to.

Las Guardianas del Conchalito

Las Guardianas del Conchalito

Las Guardianas del Conchalito

It was 2010 and El Manglito had a reputation as one of the most dangerous neighborhoods in La Paz. Outsiders perceived it as a place where trouble thrived. Taxis often refused to enter. “When we decided to set up our office there, I really thought it was a crazy idea” recalls Liliana Gutierrez, the former program director for Noroeste Sustentable (NOS) in Baja California Sur. “NOS director Alejandro Robles stood in the middle of this maligned place and talked about building a sustainability demonstration center so that people could really see what sustainability could look like in La Paz. Sam Walton wanted to have organic gardens and fisheries restoration projects. He wanted to bring in experts from all over the world to meet the fishermen. Really smart people shared this vision with them, and all I could think is that all these people are completely crazy.” As it turns out, she was right. Continues Liliana, “They were crazy. They were crazy in the most needed way that we need crazy people in the world because from that moment began an amazing story.” And everything they envisioned has come to pass. But that was only once the women got involved.

“Our first communication from the fishermen in El Manglito was a rock through the window of our offices” recalls Liliana. Like the rest of their neighborhood, the fishermen of El Manglito had a particularly bad reputation and were infamous for illegally poaching fish in the protected waters around Isla Espiritu Santo. NOS was part of an Espiritu Santo surveillance alliance that had been literally chasing them in boats in an attempt to restrict their nocturnal thievery, so the rock was not a total surprise. “It was a time of high polarization” notes Liliana with a nod to understatement. “Conservation NGOs like NOS had very strong ideas against the fishermen and the fishermen against the NGOs.”

NOS adapted its thinking. They started reaching out to the fishermen through their children by supporting local soccer teams and eventually the fishermen agreed to meet with them. “When we first went into El Manglito we thought we knew everything about fisheries conservation and all we had to do was convince the fishermen” recalls Liliana. “But we soon realized our approach was not working so we started talking in a very different way. And by that I mean we, NOS, stopped talking. We started listening. And it was beautiful how the whole idea of restoration emerged from them.”

Many of the fishing families of El Manglito are descended from the Yaqui Indians who left Sonora at the turn of the last century to escape government persecution. The Yaquis are renowned freedivers and used these skills in La Paz to fish for the huge scallops called callo de hacha in the Ensenada de La Paz, a lagoon inside the Bay of La Paz whose shores reach El Manglito. But by 2008 their lagoon was dead and their callo de hachas with it. Raw sewage from the city was being pumped in, and tons of the city’s garbage was being picked up by hurricanes and dumped there. The fishermen therefore started going to the rich waters around Isla Espiritu Santo to fish. But in 2010 the Espiritu Santo Archipelago was declared a marine national park, and the fishermen of El Manglito were transformed overnight from legal actors into illegal poachers. They had not been consulted on the process.

But they were resilient. “The fishermen knew it was possible to bring the callo de hacha back, to restore their original fishing area” says Liliana. “We didn’t know it, but they did.” The fishermen knew where the richest points in the bay were for the scallops and knew what needed to be done. “We had assumed that they were evil fishermen and that we were going to save them. Turns out, they knew exactly how to save themselves.” Thus started the callo de hacha restoration project that took seven years and attracted people from all around the world – biologists, conservationists, impact investors. “Everything was happening as Alejandro and that team had dreamed. It was beautiful.”

 

But only once the women showed up. NOS, with the support of key funders, had made the controversial decision to pay the fishermen during the restoration period while fishing was suspended. Some of their wives were not impressed with the results. Martha Garcia, speaking for herself and her friend Araceli Méndez says, “As soon as our husbands started receiving payment for not fishing during the restoration, our dream of transforming El Manglito into a beautiful, healthy community became just a job for them. They lost the dream.” Araceli didn’t think their husbands were performing particularly well at the job either.  El Manglito had instituted a surveillance system at the Conchalito scallop banks to keep the poachers out, and the men were approaching the banks by boat. Notes Araceli, “It gets really shallow there so the boats would get stuck in the mud and the men would just end up having shouting matches with the poachers who would always get away with the scallops overland.” Their friend Graciela Olachea designed a new approach. “We could tell where the poachers were accessing the banks by land” continues Araceli, “So me, Graciela, Martha, and several other women started patrolling the land around the banks and scaring off the poachers that way.” The women achieved in 3 months what the men had failed to achieve in 3 years.  The poachers were gone. Liliana sighs ruefully, “We should have started with the women.”

“In 2016 we joined OPRE, the fishing cooperative NOS helped the men create, and in 2018 we named ourselves Las Guardianas del Conchalito,” recalls Martha. “We wanted to do this our own way, for what we believe in. El Manglito had a bad reputation to the outside, but inside we were a strong, vibrant community. We wanted to build on that.” They were so dedicated that even though NOS had funding to pay only 5 women, 14 joined Las Guardianas and shared the pay. They have been sharing triumphs and trials in a similar fashion ever since.

Las Guardianas take turns telling some of their story. “The mangrove area at Conchalito where we ran off the poachers was a disastrous eyesore that served as a drive-through hotel, a drug dealers’ office, and a neighborhood dump” notes Daniela Bareño.  “We reclaimed that land for the neighborhood.” Her colleague Claudia Reyes continued. “The first thing we did was push huge stones across the entryway to stop vehicles from entering, then we organized massive trash cleanups in which we got all segments of the neighborhood engaged. We were taking out 3 tons of trash at a time.” Daniela continued, “While we were cleaning the area, a woman came running in who was being pursued by some scary men. Araceli, Marta and I chased those men away. That incident made us realize that women come here because they know that we are women creating a safe space for women.” El Conchalito is now a beautiful public space for the people of La Paz where people come to walk their dogs, go bird watching, and enjoy the mangroves. Rosa Hale, who tracks usage of the area is particularly proud of one statistic, “The number of women using the space has increased by 70% since we started.”

Liliana nominated Las Guardianas for a National Geographic grant. They won and received training in birdwatching to further their dream of guiding people on birding trips through the mangroves. Inspired, Araceli pondered why the women never dove, only the men. They all sent letters to the Women Divers Hall of Fame in the US which awarded a scholarship to each Guardiana who wanted to learn to dive. The photo of Araceli, Martha and Claudia diving with the National Geographic flag is now the stuff of legend.

And this is how Las Guardianas get things done. They support each other to pursue their own passions, and they inform the NGOs about what support is most beneficial to them. While there’s scarcely a high school diploma amongst them, Araceli is now the “biologist” and is the first woman oyster farmer in La Paz; Daniela is the “engineer” who is working on restoring the Conchalito mangroves in conjunction with WildCoast; Claudia is the “Professor” who teaches people about El Conchalito and takes courses on sustainable business initiatives; Rosa is the “Secretary” who generates use statistics for the estuary; and Martha is the “lawyer” who negotiates deals and recently got Las Guardianas incorporated as their own legal entity. More importantly, she negotiated the permit for the group to restore the Conchalito mangroves, the first time such a permit has ever been issued in La Paz.

“This is the paradigm shift that we are seeing in Baja California Sur now” says McKenzie Campbell, the International Community Fund’s Director of Programs. “Local groups like Las Guardianas have clear hopes, goals and solutions for the future of their communities and ecosystems they steward.  They know what they need, and our job as a foundation is to support them in their visions and help provide the tools for their success.”

Liliana is now the director of the Mexican Initiative for Seas and Coasts* and continues her work with Las Guardianas. “Las Guardianas take full advantage of the courses offered by local NGOs, and I gave one on Systemic Thinking. But they really didn’t need it” she recalls. “Las Guardianas are systemic by nature. They embrace the idea that their children, the mangroves, the scallops, the ocean, conservation are all one single issue that can’t be separated.” Liliana, once so skeptical of El Manglito, learned what the women always knew: El Manglito is a strong and dynamic community. It just needs tough, loving guardians to continuously defend, protect and transform it. Las Guardianas.

*TRANSLATOR: Iniciativa por los Mares y las Costas de Mexico

 

 

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